This is really apples and oranges though at the end of the day. Initially, it would be easy to assume that 48 inch pounds (as applied to a dirt bike wheel with aluminum rim) would still be a low figure for a heavy street bike with steel rims and hubs. I have seen wheels laced and trued (by Buchannan's?) where the rim has split down the center because of over-tightening. When attempting to use their advice in the past, what happened to me was usually breaking the spoke, not the hub or even pulling the nipple through the rim. I rejected their advice long ago on spoke tension although I agreed that tight spokes give you much less grief than loose ones on the whole. with the pre-tightening spoke tension nearly even before pulling up the nipple for the final tension.Īll the above I accept as given and I agree that Buchannans Wheel had routinely over-tightened their spokes in the past. It should be located laterally and true to within. Except for minor adjustments you shouldn't use spoke tension to true the wheel. Spokes don't pull against the hub to get their strength, but adjacent and diametrically opposed spoke sets.Īlso, some people fail to true the wheel before final tightening of the spokes. Now one mentions we are dealing with a geometric form, and that the strength of that form is based upon the ability of the wheel builder to get all of the spokes in a set tightened equally. Don't worry, you won't break the hub, the spoke will pull through the rim long before that happens. If not lubricated the nipple will gaul and cut its way through the rim as you tighten it. I might add that the current lot of after market rims are not a stiff as originals and this becomes a factor.Īlso, one should be cautious with most of the after market rims, and using stainless nipples without lubricating the nipple's bearing surface on the rim. While I find with an original Jones or Dunlop rim I can easily get 48 inch pounds on the rear wheel (steel hub), I am reticent to recommend that much for a cast hub front. They too have had hubs break during tensioning.įrom Faast's web site we garner: "We recommend 48inch pounds for most motocross and off-road applications from 80cc to 650cc." This, for wheels that will take the pounding in of off road use. If you call and talk to them about spoke tension on old British cast iron hubs they admit that they do not tighten these wheels as tight as they used to. Here is the sentence where all of the applicable information applies to our motorcycles: "Hub and rim structure will determine the amount of torque that can be exerted." The only informative advice is, "For large displacement cycles, the torque should be in excess of 80 inch pounds." It is only a couple of paragraphs on a 4 x 5 in. I suppose ones eyes wouldn't glaze over when they read the Buchanan's wheel building instructions.
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